![]() Homeowners looking to construct second homes were searching for ways to bring down construction costs. However, this was only for vacation homes and particularly for beach houses. Rafter tails that are not enclosed are classified as “exposed”.Įxposing the rooftop’s rafter tails became a typical practice when the 21st century rolled over. Most rafter tails are enclosed by a soffit, so that they are not easily visible to the eye. The rafter tail is the cut end of the rafter that stretches out to the edge of the rooftop. The dimensions of a rafter are typically 2″ x 10″ or 2″ x 12″. It normally follows the angle of the rooftop and could also be a part of a roof truss, in some cases. There are a few key designs components that architects use to give their plans a beach look and feel, and one of them is the exposed rafter tail.Ī rafter is the framing part which directly supports the rooftop sheathing. As you look for a waterfront or beach house plan that fits with your way of life, you’ll start to see that there are some plans that look more beach-like than others. Watch the nails your roofers use on the overhangs so they don't show from below.Deciding upon a home plan for your waterfront property gives you the opportunity to look into home styles that are more novel than the plans found in most subdivisions. As you go up the gable, run each third piece of t & g back to the first rafter in from the wall, which will provide strength for the overhang. ![]() Carrying the detail up the gables means either the last common rafter, or the gable wall, should be also built 1 1/2" lower. The blockimg should be far enough out from the sheathing so that it can cover the top of the siding and any trim. ![]() If you angle the blocking at 90 degrees to the bottom of the rafters it makes things much easier. I typically like to cut it to that it leaves a 2" gap to the t & g above, which I fill with pieces of perforated U-flashing. Think through where your blocking between the rafter tails will go carefully. Depending on how much shear you need for your roof, you may just want to drop the applied rafter tails 1" and stop your sheathing where the t & g ends, rather than sheath over it too. The smaller the cut on the 2"圆"s the better. As you say, you already have sufficient bearing on the comm0n rafters. The blocking at the butt ends of the 2"圆"s adds nothing. The strength of the connection to the common rafters and the applied tails is in the nails used to fasten the two pieces. It's a common detail here done in a very similar way to what you are proposing. There are no building codes here in rural Alaska, but of course I still want it built correctly. The height of the overall assembly also makes it easier for me to match the eave line of the house we are adding on to. The sistered rafters won’t bear directly on the studs. Other issue: the wall does not have a double top plate. But is that an issue in this context? Shouldn’t the common rafter still have it’s full strength? This normally wouldn’t be allowed with the 8-12 roof pitch, because the birdsmouth would be more than 25% of the rafter depth. Some potential issues: the seat cut is the full 5 ½” of the top plate. This is all in an unconditioned attic space. There’s blocking to accept the end of the sistered rafter tails. ![]() They are dropped 1 ½” to allow for t&g car deck below the roof sheathing (nicer to look at from below). I have some full dimension 2″圆″ red cedar I would like to sister on to the common rafters, so that the exposed tail will be rot resistant. But, I don’t want to expose the spruce common rafters I’m using to the elements. I would like to have exposed rafter tails on our addition.
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